Candlelight Procession

On Tuesday, May 21st, I participated in a candlelight procession for the kidnapped vicars and priests in Damascus. (Though it was too light outside to have the effect of lit candles.) Recently, several members of the clergy have been abducted without much information being shed on the motives or the persons or organizations who did it. The clergy are from the Orthodox churches because the Latin clergy is much smaller in number.

All churches gathered outside of the Roman Orthodox Vicariate for a statement by the religious leaders. A procession then moved by the Latin Vicariate and then to the Syrian Orthodox vicariate also in Sweifieh. Perhaps forty clergy member processed, including priests, bishops and patriarchs, and a large number of the Catholic faithful joined it. 

I was moved to see the good number of people who participated in the prayer at the Syrian Cathedral following the procession. The churches came together in solidarity, not for any political purpose, but as a show of unity and compassion for those who have been abducted. Bishop Maroun Lahham read a joint statement on behalf of all the Catholic churches in the area who stand in solidarity with the kidnapped religious leaders.

I should do this more often

Walking up to evening mass is always a treat because the sun is setting for the day, the number of cars passing by slows down, and people are outside their homes and businesses enjoying day's end. To me it feels like a very mellow close to the weekend, but for most it is the close of the first day of the week. Every seems happy to greet the passerby and exchange pleasantries. I do so in limited fashion.

I always stop in to say hello to my Syrian barber. Sometimes he is sprawled out in his barber's chair catching a few winks, but with an eye always towards the potential customer standing at his door. He always gets up and greets me. He speaks to me loquaciously in Arabic and I understand two words at best and I greet him with my American English gibberish, but we laugh as he always invites me in for a conversation. His eyes are light blue, but always vivid. I wonder if he has a wife and children. He has been in Amman for a number of years - way before the troubles in Syria. He is a most pleasant chap, doesn't shave often, doesn't keep the cleanest shop, but is good at his craft.

I saw a man washing his blue van with a trail of blue water running down the street. I wondered if he was trying to revive the color or wash it away, but it seemed odd all the same.

On my way back from church, I watch the many people traffic themselves by me. Four men were pushing a stalled car up the road. I thought about helping, but it seemed like the car would start in any minute. Two minutes later, the four men were still pushing the car, but in the other direction. Traffic was backed up terribly, but no one was honking their horns - a real miracle.

I passed by a middle-age couple sitting on a cement railing and they seemed to be in easy conversation. We said hello as I walked towards home. I passed by the customary shopkeepers who waved their hands vigorously as I shouted "Marhaba" to them. (Hello.)

A couple of tourists were out for a stroll as their eyes and ears were inquisitive to everything happening around them. Then a second car glided by me pushed by three different men.

A religious sister, who speaks Italian and Arabic, and I chatted about which type of ice cream bar she would buy for her sisters. She exclaimed they were all too big for the little sister in the house. I helped her select, but she bought six of the largest chocolate bars and one black raspberry Italian ice. She had a wide grin as she made her purchase. I guess it was recreation for the Sabbath.

Since a very generous vendor gave me some bread, some new fangled unsalted chips, and some chicken stuffed dough, I decided to give it to the barber since I don't know if he eats well at all. He can't make that much money for cutting hair at 4 JOD a piece, but he is always busy. His face lit up brightly as I gave him some food and he promptly offered to share it with the customer whose hair he was cutting. I like giving away food and other items. It really makes me feel good.

I had the best time just being out for a stroll and I realized I have to get out and talk with people more. They are good hearted and most people just want someone to say something nice to them.

Afterwards I went to dinner with a couple of friends. I ordered "Vintage Marsala from Ramallah." What a name. I knew what I was ordering, but the marsala that we order for chicken in the States (marsala wine), is not the same marsala used in Jordan. Theirs is much more like spicy Indian food. It was very tasty and I enjoyed being with good company tonight. It was quite an evening to finish off the beginning of a rocky weekend when I was waylaid by a hard-hitting virus, but I have good memories of the weekend.

It just keeps moving

First Communion services were held today at our Sweifeih Church for 18 young people. They were adorable and handsome. The girls were elegant white dresses while the boys dressed in stately black suits. They were very excited to be more fully incorporated into the church. I was happy to meet their parents - some of whom I met for the first time.

It seemed like it was the place to be in Amman. Everyone was there and the church was overflowing with proud visitors. The liturgy had its share of surprises as it is a challenge to get 18 young people to do many things in unison, but they pulled it off nicely. Many thanks to Sana and Clara for their help in getting things done smoothly.

The reception was well planned. I don't know where all the food came from but it mysteriously appears. The cake was extraordinary and the reception hall was full. I was hoping to meet all the parents and grandparents, but my job turned out to pose as George Clooney for the paparazzi or to bless the heads of many parishioners.

I rushed home late to collect my guest who was arriving from Maine. Fr. Michael went to pick him up at the airport, but he was not there. We waited and waited until I went upstairs to my office and behold - there was John. He made it in a little early and was settling in just fine.

We've had a lot of guests lately. Janet visited before Easter and the Dozan concerts. Then Fr. Paul came for two week for his Easter vacation. At the same time, friends from St. Paul in Cambridge arrived for their pre-tour of Amman before the went to Jerusalem and the West Bank. I caught up with them at the end as well. Then the tour group from St. Paul arrived the same time Soohwan did. John arrived today and then Fr. Al returns on Friday. It has been a whirlwind.

I decided that rather than planning out their details, I would try to integrate them into a celebration. It was a great success. We ate and drank at Crumz the other night in a happy hour setting. The sun was setting but the evening sky remained warm with a very forgiving breeze. It was a terrific way of letting my friends come to meet each other. One friend said to me about my friends that they were very nice and I just said, "That is why they are my friends."

Yesterday as I was scheduled to go to our Dozan Day, I just told my guests they were coming with me. I find that it is enriching for them to actually see my life in Jordan and they are pleased with what they see. In years past, I would have segregated them, but now I ask myself, "why would I do that?" It works out better this way.

The Dozan Day was filled with singing and dancing in the hills just past Marj Al Harmmam, Field of the Pigeons, where we ate lots of grilled kebabs and sweet desserts. My chocolate buttercream frosting melted in the hot sun giving me new appreciation for Arabic sweets. We were all given individually framed photos of our dancing with a professionally recorded DVD of our performance. Shireen, the conductor, was very sweet in writing a special statement for each performer and signing it for us.

Dozan singers are special people. They are the new Jordan and I like what I experience. They offer our world a unique way of celebrating contemporary life. They are very gracious.

I know that I am settling in because many Jordanians are asking me for directions, for travel tips, or for places to bring guests to the country. Though it is perplexing, it generates interesting conversations.

One thing I still have to discover is how to grown desert plants. I've been given a few houseplants that deteriorate quickly though there are signs that they are coming back. I suspect the soil is poor and needs to be mixed with peat moss and other products because the roots choke in the hard, caked soil. I plan to get some soil this week and continue my experiment.

On the road Thursday and Friday, I saw pockets of people who have gathered to represent their causes. Since I can't yet read the signs, I'm not sure of their positions, but they don't exceed more than twenty people. I sense some are disgruntled over wages and governmental positions and it is good that their voices are heard.

I'm tired from all the recent activities. On Easter Monday, I went to mass and thought that I would have an easy time afterwards. At the close, there was a man who wanted to obtain money from me and plead his cause. The next day, a similar thing happened. All I want to do is pray, but sometimes someone comes and wants something and from their perspective, it has to be done right away. They hover and impose their will and they later apologize for their aggressive behavior.

One morning, a man asked for absolution - for the 22nd time - and I reminded him there is no absolution without confession. He reckoned that since he came in at 8:29 I would not have time to hear his confession before the 8:30 mass. The next day another man comes in at 8:29 and asks to go to confession. When they want something, their entire energies are driven to get what they want in the present moment. And of course, when he is done there is a line of others who want and need something.

This morning, I really wanted to sit outdoors for a few minutes and breathe in the cool, fresh breeze that was passing by. The moment I sat down, two people came running up to the gated veranda asking a bunch of questions. It reminded me of the scene in Jesus Christ Superstar when all he wants to do is sit down and drink a cup of water, but the people kept coming to him. They pressed on and on him.

After engaging them in conversation because I could not answer their questions, I simply stood up and went back to my room for some quiet.

It is time for bed now.

Catching Up on Rest

The morning was silent and lazy and I had no urgency to arise. I turned back over and just let myself breathe so easily and naturally. A million things to do washed over my mind but I simply dismissed them to enjoy a gentle waking. I had nearly eight hours of interrupted sleep as a cool morning breeze greeted me.

After a hot decaffeinated coffee helped me stir to life, I went to the refrigerator to collect two eggs, corn on the cob, roasted onions, grilled garlic and chicken. I made myself a tasty omelette and declined on adding any cheese to weigh it down. I felt ready for the day.

The phone rang, emails piled up, visitors knocked, but this is my day off.

I looked again at my artwork from class last night and I became excited that I will begin painting next week. I thought about my work in framing these images and I realize how difficult it is going to be, but I love the color palette of the busy city street that I have to sketch. For a moment I felt lonely that I can't really share my excitement with others, but then I poured myself a cappuccino and shared it with the Lord. That felt meaningful.

This weekend will be very busy with people coming in and out of my life. A former spiritual directee is visiting Amman this weekend, a friend from Maine is also coming, the visiting priest who filled in until a year ago is returning to Chicago, and three friends from my former parish in Cambridge are stopping in Amman as their pilgrimage concludes. Then I have First Communion preparation this weekend and Confirmation next weekend.

But today, I need to be gentle with myself as I recover from Holy Week and Easter services. I imagine Jesus needed time to recover from what he went through as well.

Finally Easter!

Easter has finally come and I am well satisfied with the liturgies. There's always room for improvement, but most of it has to deal with the host churches. It is difficult to lug everything from place to place all the time and one of the pastors really would prefer we not even use his church, but we deal with that as best we can.

Mostly I am proud of two individuals who were received into the church. They are excellent people who are fun to be with. I enjoy my weekly meetings with them and I am so proud of the way they reached deep into their faith and found enjoyment in it.

Many parishioners told me that these were the most beautiful services they've experienced in Amman. Above all, they were edified by seeing these two new Neophytes enter the faith. It gives them hope and they are happy to see new Catholics added to the community. They also realized that this process took them a long while to enter and that they devoted study. It is great to build upon these rites and we already have others who are interested in joining the faith in the future.

I feel like I have been through a whole year's worth of activities and now I can move away from the essentials and get things organized in different ways. Just like a first year teacher, it takes time to build upon a new foundation.

The choir did a great job. After they walk out of mass, they cannot keep singing. They do get excited to learn new songs and they simply cannot stop singing. That tells me they like it a whole lot. I've also had visitors to the parish who sing the traditional songs we are learning and they feel very welcome. Liturgies are not done so well in Amman and when it is carried off well, people feel at home. I want to specialize in that because it is the only chance I'll be able to see some people and I want them to have a good experience. I also want many of the parishioners who have difficult lives to have something meaningful to celebrate.

Today was lovely as I had a chance to rest, celebrate, and begin to work on First Communion and Confirmation celebrations. Oh, yes, and then there are all the calls about infant baptisms.

All is good. I'm very pleased.

The Friday called Good

As the day winds down, I look back on a very satisfactory day. My room is sparkling clean and ready for the Resurrection. The windows and drapes are washed, the room re-arranged, the rugs lifted up, and the floors are shiny. All the winter dust is gone.

The Good Friday service was very fine. I was able to pray during the service. It also helped to have two priests who could participate in the duties so that I am able to do the principal functions of a presider. I liked that dignity and reverence was brought to the service and that we did not feel rushed.

Last night, during the process to transfer the Blessed Sacrament, I was reminiscing on my studies of Catholic Medieval history when the concept of Transubstantiation was posited by Thomas Aquinas. Corpus Christi became a huge feast with a lengthy civic procession past banks, government offices, farms and fields, and homes for the influential. The Sacrament was raised and to bless the buildings and lands with the sign of the Cross. Christians reached out to touch the Sacrament and to be blessed by it - almost superstitiously. Many parishioners last night also reached out to touch the ciboria, which even the priest guards against touching, or to be blessed by its powerful presence. It shows that with the passage of centuries, we simply remain the same people.

The Arabic custom of having a coffin with the corpus of Jesus is an unusual one to me, but they really like it. It is as if the people are waking Jesus. I'm sure this depiction of the dead Jesus is helpful to many. As I see these customs, I begin to see what feeds people.

The real treat for the day was walking the streets of Jebel Hussein. I still can't communicate with people well, but I do try to engage as best I can. An elderly man was walking down the street with a cane behind his back and I told him it works better if his cane touches the ground. He wailed about the great pain in his back. I'm sure he hasn't enough money to see the chiropractor or a back specialist to ease his pain.

I saw a few older couples out for strolls where the husband and wife looked lovingly at each other and shared soft conversations. I passed by my barber as well. He is always chatty and I have no idea what he is saying. I speak through sign language and he continues to smile and laugh and chatter on. Teenage boys come up to me and say something in English. When I engage with them, their eyes light up. Life goes on here just as in any inner city. People seemed peaceful today because it is the weekend and they celebrated Labor Day yesterday. Therefore, they had time to relax. (We'll pay for it again in a few days when we want mail service. It takes a while for them to get back to normal levels of productivity.) However, it is nice to see people take their leisure and stay out of their cars.

Now, I have to plan for tomorrow night's liturgy. We have choir rehearsal today, but I still have to put together the program and color eggs for the coloring event for kids from 1 to 92. It is a peaceful day.

Graced Days

We took a dignitary out for dinner last night and I punted on a restaurant. I knew it might be the right one, but I had never been there before. It is called Canteloupe and it sits on the lower section of Jebel Amman's Rainbow Street's arts district. It has a roof-top view of the City Centre and the illuminated Citadel. The restaurant was just right. I felt like I was eating at one of Portland, Maine's restaurants or one of the trendy bistros in Gloucester, Massachusetts. The food was superb, the service good, excellent views, and tasteful decor. My guests said that this was the best meal they had in Amman. 

Today's Chrism Mass was quite nice. The Patriarch, Apostolic Nuncio, his assistant, and the bishop was there, plus around 45 priests of the diocese. I was glad to meet many of them and I was remarking to myself, "A congregation of priests is the same wherever you go." The gathering could have been in Newark or Indianapolis and you would be able to tell the various characteristics of the priests. 

Getting to the Chrism Mass was an ordeal. For some reason, no matter how I change the settings on the GPS, I am led to the most congested part of town. I know that this place is right off the airport road and that it is a quick commute, however, the dirt roads my GPS took me on had me stopped three times to allow goats and their shepherd to pass from field to field. Those guard dogs do not like cars getting near to their flock at all. I even had to stop to let a lumbering horse decide to cross the road. I was surprise he was untethered and not in a gate. 

The Mass of the Lord's Supper was quite an event, with pockets of humor. The Arab organizers showed up two hours early. It is not possible for them to close the sacristy door; Nor is it possible for them to whisper. Their darting back and forth made more buzz despite their attempts to be silent. The Arab parishioners came an hour and a half early to take their seats. Would they wait outside until mass was over? Of course not. Their silent body movements are very loud and imposing. They walk just like they drive.

I looked out into the congregation and said to myself, "God must really love us."

Despite all the drama, I remember the words of a wise mentor priest, "Nothing that is done wrong at Mass can invalidate the resurrection."