Today, the Jesuits toured Rihab near the Syrian border, which is reputed to be the refuge site for the 70 Christian elders who fled persecution by Jews right after the fall of the Temple around 70 CE. The people of the Way were experiencing great hostility by the Jewish community. This church is thought (by locals) to be the oldest church on record - having been built in the 1st Century. Rihab is 15 miles west of Al-Mafraq, which is 15 miles from the Syria border on the road to Damascus.
The information about the 70 elders is recorded in extra-scriptural references and is said to be fairly accurate. The local Christian community in Rihab said they found a plaque that honored the 70 Elders in the church first shows in these photos. We do not know whether it was the main church upstairs or the cave church below.
We Jesuits are interested in learning more about the 70 and the lore of the local people
The concealed church had to be entered by going through a house into a secluded room. In tight quarters, the room could probably contain 30 people. There are circular seats for the assembly and a place where the altar was located. The kitchen was in the front portion of the house where a hole in the ceiling let out the smoke from cooking.
A larger church was built upon the concealed church between the 3rd and 6th centuries. The area contains around 30 churches. The government is now unearthing much of the property. They buy up the houses when residents leave and then excavate the property. Christians have remained in the area throughout time.
The largest church may have been a basilica that sits atop the hill overlooking the valley. It is now the headquarters of the Rihab Archeological Site. Interestingly, sand is poured over the mosaic artwork to protect it from the sun's strong rays. Wind damage is responsible for loss of property as well.
I can't imagine what travel was like in biblical times. A person or caravan would have needed to carry lots of water. Travel still would have been slow, painful, and subject to harassment and violence. It helps me understand the virtue of hospitality that is practiced in the Middle East and why it is such a strong value. It can mean the difference between life and death.
As we stopped for lunch, we noted the lack of wildlife, but the abundance of images in drawings. Reportedly, whenever you have herds of goats or sheep, they eat all the grass that is precious in the desert. Animals like lions, onyxes, and other mammals left the area in search of greater sources of food. Peacocks were often used in iconography, but none are found in the area anymore.
We took the road back to Amman via Jerash. Jerash, is Gerasa or Gedara in the New Testament where the demoniac thrashed about the cemetary.
To see photos of Rihab, click on the link below:
Pics of Rihab
I am a Jesuit priest of the USA East Province who has an avocation of binding art and creativity to spirituality. I have a SoWa (South End) studio in Boston and I give retreats and spiritual direction using creative techniques to make a person's Ignatian prayer particular and unique. Ignatian Spirituality is the cornerstone of my work; art, poetry, prose is a way to help us get to the heart of conversations in prayer.
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John, that sounds like quite a place. I did not go there, but I have a sense of where it is, maybe north and east of Jerash?
ReplyDeleteJerash is spectacular, amazing ruins. However, I thought that Umm Quais was Gedara? Who knows where some of these places really were! You *must* see Umm Quais, I so loved it there. Smaller than Jerash, and so quiet when I visited.
And I love what you say about hospitality.
It is quite a place - even if the story isn't true. It is amazing the number of churches built in this tiny village.
ReplyDeleteYou may be right. Umm Quais is said to be the site of the Gedara demoniac. Someone from the Center was speaking as Jerash as Gerasa, which is entirely possible. Since they are so close geographically, there could be some link. Gerasa could be the wider region and Umm Qais might be the actual spot. As you say, who knows? When I listen to people, it seems that each person has a different pronunciation for the same word.
Anyways, I'll get there.