A Simple Day

As Sunday Mass is not held until 6:00 p.m. tonight, it was very easy to take a leisurely morning. It is like a Monday for people in the U.S., so it is nice to be relaxing when the rest of the world is busy about the return to the work week. I sat outdoors in the shade near a pomegranate tree and listened to the bird, the distinctive coo of the morning doves, and the chirping of sparrow-sized birds. 

As I was in a garden, I was thinking about how gardens appear in biblical stories so often. I can see that there are such pleasures in them, and I can also see that snakes might want to hide in the stone walls. The Gardens of Good and Evil. Mostly, the bountiful food of gardens and the fragrances of abundant fruit makes it enticing.

I'm not sure I'll make it to the place, but the gardens at the Pools of Hisban that are featured in the Song of Songs is nearby. A small brook runs through it, which is cool and refreshing and must have been a place of bathing and recreation. "Her eyes are like the Pools of Hisban."

Much of the Holy Land is contained in Jordan, and many people do not associate Jordan with the Bible, but it is where much of the Old Testament happened. Of course, most of the tribes of Jacob were situated in Palestine/Israel on the west bank of the Jordan River. 

Think: Abraham, Isaac, Jacob

            Moses, Joshua, the 40 years in the wilderness

            Elijah, Elisha, Tobit, the prophets, John the Baptist, the return home from exile

            Uriah the Hittite, Gilead, Isaiah, 

            Jesus of Nazareth spend time preaching, being baptized, praying in this region.

In the New Testament:

            The Baptism, Healings, Gerasene Demoniac, the early fathers after the Temple's fall.

            Sea of Galilee, the early Creed, many historical churches in the 2-4th centuries.

Anyways, it was simply a place rich with historical remembrances.

Yesterday was quite full of presence. I had an Iraqi friend and his wife from the States come for a two hour visit. It was a pleasure to hear their updates. They are on their way to Baghdad now. They have invited me, and I'll make sure I get there at some point. 

I drove to Mass in Sweifieh. The roads are the same but the markers are all different. I remember many of the places, but I could not be sure I was in the right place. There are fewer English signs that I remember, and it make the trek just a little precarious. I made it though. The roads in Amman are good; the people simply have a different way of using space than we do in the U.S. For an American who likes law and order, don't bother to come here because you might not understand the people's relationship to space and boundaries. You will become frustrated or you will learn to loosen up with your propensity to control.

Mass was filled. Just as Mass began, 20 Nigerians entered and sat in the back. They were on pilgrimage, and they wore such colorful clothing. I saw some friends from long ago, and we had many children attending mass. It was a good spirit. After mass, I had dinner at a friend's house and then came back to Jebel Hussein to attend a gathering where my original art teacher was present. It was good to spend time with him. 

When I came home, I went to my room, and by the time my head hit the pillow, I was out for the duration.

        

            

A balloon on a stick

Yesterday was a full, but relaxing day. After saying Mass, we cleaned the chapel and rearranged the sacramental items that piled up over time. It was simply a casual day because it was quiet outside as it is the Islamic equivalent to a Sunday. I had enough projects to do so I didn't mind having a low-key day.

I feel so bad for the people in Europe who are enduring a monster heat wave. Fortunately, it is quite temperate in the MidEast. Europe is seeing unprecedented heat for this time of year. I realize the U.S. is also in drought conditions in many areas. Looking at the maps is quite frightening. Thankfully, we are quite moderate in our weather patterns in Jordan. 

Though drove the streets in Amman for two years, the Superior wanted to accompany on my first drive in one of the Center's cars. That was fine. The roads would not be jammed with traffic because of the day off, so we drove down to the downtown area, which has become rather hip. We avoided the heart of the downtown because we just wanted to go out for a short ride, but the area is looking quite smart with new decorations, signage, and for the variety of markets. I'll have to spend an evening down there to see some of the Roman ruins and to glance at the restaurant scene.

We passed by First Circle and Rainbow Street, which is equivalent to the Old Town Main Street. At one end, there are local restaurants with plenty of shi-sha and street falafel. At the other end, the more trendy restaurants and hotels are situated to overlook the Temple of Heracles and the Roman ruins. I was disappointed to learn that my favorite bookstore, Caffe Strada, had closed. It had nice pastries, good coffee, and was non-smoking except for a designated small courtyard area. They also sold current English-language books.

While most people hang out on Rainbow Street, I find there are many pottery shops and other interesting shops on the side-streets. It is a big breakfast place with many restaurants preparing flour pancakes with syrup. There are a few bookstores and art galleries that make it worthwhile, and WildJordan, a tourist agency with lots of things to do inside there store, is on one of the sidestreets.

We passed by St. Joseph's church near First Circle where I used to say Mass on Sundays. The Filipino community has been unable to attend church there since COVID in 2020, and they will be allowed back on August 7th. It will be interesting to see if anyone returns because the Filipinos have shifted to other churches in the area. The compound has a food club and a clerical shirt shore, so many people come to have a nice meal and some recreation time.

By the way, it is still an adjustment to use Jordanian Denari and currency. I was so used to it years ago, but now I have to get used to it again. Many things are just slightly different. For example, if someone sets up for mass, the person will have the book flipped over as if you have finished reading it. It is backwards to e, but as they read from right to left, they set it up in a way they think will be helpful to me.

We had a short coffee with the young pastor of St. Joseph. He was quite welcoming and hospitable. We talked a lot about the future of the local church in the Kingdom. The seminary had to close because they had three applicants during the time of COVID.

I came home in time to meet up with the Filipino community after they said their Sunday mass. We met at the Pontifical Library run by the Teresians. It was a nice time together. It was good to see them after so many years. One woman told me that when I was here in the past that she was single but now she is married. She introduced me to her husband. I asked, "How is married life going?", and he replied, "It is very hard." She nodded and said, "Father, it is hard." Most of the Filipinos are domestic workers and many are not treated with great dignity in their workplaces. There is little time to process what happens to them each day, so if they do not get a chance to talk about it as they get home, those frustrations can build. Mostly, at work, a person doesn't have much freedom. Many of them live with their employers and do not get a chance to build a life independent from them and a situation of dependency and codependency builds. 

Sometimes the beauty is just in hearing the stories of the people that they tell you little bits over time. You hear of their resilience, their worldview based on endurance, and the hope they have for the future. The stories are touching and beautiful in their own right, and unfortunately, most of the world does not give time to hear those stories. It is a grace to simply sit with people and accompany them. Pope Francis often talks about a culture of encounter in which we meet "a people." This is what he means. He wants some groups of people to be seen, to be known, to be treated with mercy, and to be valued and cared for in the way that one deserves.

I'm listening to the ways the Jordanians refer to Pope Francis or if they do at all because Church in the Middle East is a different reality than in the West. Church here is often one of a discriminated against minority, but often when they have authority, they use it as the others do. Christians are at their best when they are kind, tolerant, and welcoming, like that old song goes, "You will know we are Christians by our..." We have to decide who we want to be.

At the end of lunch, four young teenagers played guitars for us. They sang, "Country Roads" by John Denver, "Hotel California" by The Eagles, "Downtown" by Petula Clark, and "Yellow Bird," a Jamaican hymn that Harry Belafonte sang. I'm sure they sang more but we had to be on our way. When we left everyone was dancing, clapping, and singing, and you really see the pride in the eyes of the teens who were performing. We left joyfully.

For the evening meal, the Jesuit community assembled for a discussion on the future of the Jesuit Centre in Amman. We knew we were meeting with a well-established Iraqi the next day and that it might be a topic of conversation. It was a pleasant conversation.

I then took at 2 mile walk to Al Abdali mall where I could read a book that I brought with me. I went inside the mall and was walking to a seat when I saw a toddler girl sitting with an old man, maybe her grandfather. She dropped her balloon on a stick and I picked it up for her and gave it to her. She smiled wider than I ever experienced. She was so happy. I waved and she beamed. I went to take my chair and I noticed a shadow after I read the first page and it was the old man who waved to me and the little girl squealed with delight. We exchanged a few words and they left. Two minutes later, a number of people are standing around me. It is the same man with the girl and a bunch of other woman. They all came over to wave "bye-bye" and they went home happy.

I sat and read for a while, took in the moment as people were pleased to be spending time in leisure, and the world seemed like it was in a good place for the night.

It was getting late, about 11 p.m., so I put a few marks on paper and I started creating a stairwell in Amman. I got hooked and I finished a quick painting/drawing that seemed joyful to me. I've attached it. All seemed to be okay in the world tonight. 

 

The camel

Since it is a Friday and the start of the weekend, I decided to sit outside the Jesuit Centre to take in the silence before I said Mass for the Christian community. Fridays are like our Sundays, slow, few people rising early, very few cars on the road, so it was a good time to just sit outdoors.

 

After a few deep breaths, which I do regularly as part of Christian mindfulness, I heard some odd sounds slowly getting louder. I thought nothing of it at first. I figured it might be someone moving some equipment in their yards, but I paid attention as the noise became steadily louder and irregular. Then it dawned on me that it was a man on a camel coming up the hill because walking up those hills can be tiresome though good for the cardiovascular system. The hooves of the camel broke clanged against the pavement as it made it to the crest of the hill. It was quite a sight to see on this weekend morning, but…

 

…what I just said is a fabrication. Well not everything. There was no camel. There are really no camels in a cosmopolitan modern city of 5 million people. You will find them at carnivals, down by the Dead Sea as rides for tourists, or down at Wadi Rum or Petra, but not in the city. No camels. Sometimes there are sheep or goats on the edges of the city, especially when there is a feast, yet, seldom in the city.

 

What follows next though is all true. 

 

I’m enjoying a book by John O’Malley, SJ called When Bishops Meet. It is about the three most recent Ecumenical Councils – Trent, Vatican I, and Vatican II. It looks at the positive contributions of the councils, especially Vatican II, in its style, discourse, and profound effects, and it holds up Vatican II as a truly remarkable meeting of forward progress in the church. Most people do not realize just how radical and revolutionary it was, and I’m a big fan of it. I cannot wait for some of the Vatican II reforms to be implemented. I’m savoring this book.

 

On Wednesday night, I gathered with the English-speaking community of refugees who meet regularly at the Jesuit Centre. It was filled with Somalis, Ethiopians, Iraqi, Yemeni, Jordanians and a few other nationalities, and it was led by an American who is studying Arabic. We watched a TEDx talk on resiliency in the face of trauma and then we broke into small groups. I met with some of the loveliest people, who hungered to speak in English and to tell their stories. They were incredibly supportive of one another, and they sincerely cherished the experiences of each person. They communicated more through their gestures of affection and concern than through their words, which were also rather good. Most of these young people have lost everything and are in Amman to get a new start in life. Some are studying through Jesuit Refugee Services, some through Jesuit Worldwide Learning, others through the U.N. These young people retain such hope, and they love their country of origin deeply. Some say the soil of Africa beats within their hearts. This was a lovely evening.

 

Speaking of evenings, these nights in Amman are quite enjoyable. Though it may reach 86 degrees during the day, the temperatures lower to 67 to 79 degrees at night regularly. Europe is going through a heat wave and fortunately this area does not have heat waves or variable temperatures. Most days, everything is quite pleasant. I’ve learned to take a siesta during the day and take my walk at night. 

 

I visited with a friend from Jordan yesterday morning. It was good to catch up with her family dynamics and to hear of her hopes and plans. She seems to be enjoying her decisions, especially after her husband passed away unexpectedly nine years ago. She is at a place of comfort and confidence. That is good to see.

 

What appeared to be a disaster of a day creatively turned out fine. I baked a chocolate cake, which was in a too hot oven for too long, but I managed to shape it and frost it into something that was still tasty. I ran out of baker’s sugar and I did my best to make a chocolate butter cream frosting, though it was on the softer side. The community seemed to like it. They also liked the croissants that I baked. We seem to have an opportunity for a lot of good food. I will accept just a little. I also put together some prayers for the Ignatian novena and prayers for Our Lady of Mount Carmel. I painted an image of a boat on the seashore as I saw a friend’s photo online. Today I will paint a common image in Amman of the Ammanian cityscape. It will be colorful. I want to do some larger pieces of Oriental art when I get home. The people here refer to themselves more as Oriental because Arabic refers to people of a certain area. A place like Amman is like the United Nations in that it is a stopping point for so many different groups of people. I’m not sure that one can really understand the world unless one lives overseas for a period. Even then, it is impossible, but we can be more gentle in the judgments we make and the conclusions we draw. 

 

President Biden stopped in Jerusalem yesterday and he planned to stop in Palestine today and Saudi Arabia tomorrow. There are small historic agreements made that bode well for a well-balanced future. I admire the way he makes small, gentle moves. They are incremental and are not newsworthy or splashy, but they are sound steps in the right direction. Some people think that his way is weak because he is not talking tough, but there is beauty in is incremental approach. He seems to have a plan that will unfold over time. I like the way that he has re-established harmony among nations that were once allies and is rebuilding trust once again. 

 

I took a walk with an American friend from Brooklyn, N.Y. last night. She caught me up to date with her life both in New York and Amman. It was such a cool night that we walked around Jebel Hussein and looked into storefronts and street corners. We stopped at a famous bread bakery and we enjoyed a Zaatar-topped pita loaf. O, so tasty. It is a must have when visiting Amman. Does anyone want to visit me? We have available rooms. If not this time, think about next time. Sometimes just sitting outdoors at night and looking up into the stars as we spend time with others makes for a good memory. These are moments to share. 

 

Midnight Honeysuckle

O, the fragrances of midnight honeysuckle are one of the enduring sweetness of this region. The aromas are particular noticeable during the evening (as midnight might suggest) and the aromas really bring about calm and causes me to breathe deeply. I think of the off-Broadway theatre production called "The Magic of Christmas" I starred in when I had a line about this fine fragrance.

Coupled with the flowering aromas are the bright Bougainvillea with their pink and purple blossoms. They are more pronounced in the spring and down in the Jordan Valley, and you'll find them growing in many parts of the city. It often brings a burst of excitement and wonder.

Yesterday, I walked from Jebel Hussein to Jebel Webdeih, the neighboring hill. It is a stone's throw away and yet walking there takes a great deal of time because of the hills. I walked past the Toledo Hotel, which is a very clean moderate hotel if anyone wants to come visit me, and halfway down the hill before I came across the public stairwell. 

A friend remarked earlier this week that the sidewalks are made for the planting of trees. Every so often, in the middle of the pavement, a tree is planted. No one minds because the trees give shade and fruits and they are precious in their being, so everyone just walks around them, even if it means walking onto the street itself. 

Like many old parts of cities, the American Disabilities Acts has not come calling yet, but in West Amman adaptations are incorporated. In the old city, there are not many wheelchair accessible sidewalks with gentle sloping inclines or declines, and yet one adapts. 

The public stairwells beg one to pay attention as one walks as the steps are not often measured to the same height or length. You have to pay attention to where you are going. Fortunately, you do not see many people walking and drinking coffee like Americans do in the U.S. Years ago, I stopped getting a Dunkin on the run because if I am going to drink a coffee, I want to be able to sit down to enjoy it, most preferably with a friend. Coffee is communal. The coffee here is Amman is very good, whether it is tasty Arabic or Nescafe. Back to the stairs. There are often three landing areas for the stairs so you can stop and take a break if you are ascending. In various parts of the city, parts of the stairways are painted so that it is public art.

Fortunately, the first stairwell I descended had an early landing, which gave me an opportunity to see where I was going - right into a dead end. I was able to conserve steps in the heat of the midday sun in order to choose a different route because this stairwell stopped 7/8ths of the way down the stairs. I was glad to have noticed this early on.

The next stairwell was much wider with fewer steps because I was closer to the bottom of the hill. This led to the wadi that has become a parking lot. When I lived at the Jesuit Centre ten years ago, a souk was set up every weekend and so from every Wednesday night to early Sunday morning, kiosks were established to sell clothing and, well, anything. Each night was met with banging of pipes to drive the poles into the cement and people would holler to one another as they assisted in setting up the souk. Now I can sleep in peace as the souk has moved closer to the Balad, the downtown.

Once I crossed the busy intersection, I began my ascent up to Jebel Webdeih. I was glad to return to this area that was once populated by the French companies. It is a small jebel so certain characteristics are able to define the neighborhood. 

Once I realized where I was on the hill, I ran into a man wearing a Deerfield shirt. Deerfield Academy is in Western Massachusetts and the Royal family attended this school for early education. The King set up King's Academy in Madaba to replicate the school and to have an exchange of teachers so that the educational standards would be the same. This man with whom I spoke told me that he is a teacher at the school and knows a friend of mine, Steve, from Portland, Maine, with whom I worked in an earlier assignment. He was happy to meet me and to pass along my greetings to Steve. 

I was pleased to see that the neighborhood continues to be interesting. It is now full of interesting, varied, independent retailers. There are a few artist galleries and even a place where I can buy some acrylic paints. There are cafes all over the place with garden and loft restaurants. It is vibrant and trendy and there are a lot of choices for locals and tourists. There's so street art and wall murals. 

Many tourists decide to stay in the area, which makes it feel a bit more Western, and I'm not sure that is such a good thing, but it has helped the economy. 

I was pleased to see a young man picking up bottles that were left on the sidewalks or the edge of the road and place them in trash bins. He really cared for the cleanliness and wellbeing of the neighborhood.

Nine and a half years ago, an Italian restaurant named Oliva's opened up. I was one of the first customers. I was pleased to see that it is still going, and it was filled to capacity (maybe only 25 people, but it is quite popular.)

I noticed there is a big veterinary building and even a pet store where one can buys dogs and other animals. This is novel. The restaurants are not only Oriental (Arabic), but also Thai, Italian, American (Steak and Potatoes), Irish, Chinese, and other types, and of course, Shawarma and Falafel. The bakeries are still pronounced and the French Institute and Bakery still exists. Baskin Robin's sells ice cream and you can get American style donuts.

I went to Paris Circle, the center of the town, the crest of the hill, and I sat there for a bit to get some shade. It was once tree lined and now half of it is denuded, except they have planted young trees, which will eventually bring needed shade. Most of jebel has plenty of trees, so this will be a nice addition. Paris Circle is a gathering place where there will be book sales, yard sales, organizing efforts, and other community programs. 

Now for the bad part. I saw a Starbucks right on the edge of the circle. The coffee is too good here. I don't think a Starbucks is needed in this area.

On the south-western side of town, luxury apartments and condominiums are prominent. Some face the Citadel and the Roman ruins. Others face West Amman but from a high vantage point. These are types of apartments one would find in Abdoun and Eighth and Ninth Circle areas, as if one was going west to the airport. It is a blessing for them to be in Jebel Webdeih because it speaks of the cultural importance, and yet it changes the character of the city.

The Church of Mary of Nazareth used to hold a place of prominence, and those luxury apartments block the view from other jebels from seeing the church. One can now only see those luxury units. 

Otherwise, I had a fun time striking up conversations with those I met on the street. Mostly, they say "Welcome," which means come inside to my shop or cafe. We talk about where we are from. One man yelled, "You seem to be walking to Scotland. You walk far. Come back and spend some time with us."

Inshallah. 

Big Daddy

I met a Kuwaiti Catholic the other day and he asked me where I was from. I told him that I am a Catholic priest from the U.S., and he said, "You are Abouna, the Big Daddy. I have a father and I call him Daddy, but you are the Big Daddy. Abouna. You are the Big Daddy Abouna.? He knelt and put his hand on his heart before crossing himself. Big Daddy.

I offered mass today in the Holy Land for Henry Greener who died earlier this year, as today is the feast of Saint Henry.

Today is significant in two ways: trash is collected and we get water. As I was waiting outdoors to be collected by a friend, many cars stopped in front of the trash receptacle to place their bags of trash and recyclables in the large bins. The feral cats were nearby. It is a nice routine to watch. People seem to really enjoy bringing their trash to the bins and sorting the materials. It is a system that works well. The streets of Amman are quite clean and clear of debris. I'm impressed. Today, our property is being sprayed to make sure the perimeter of the building is cleared so insects do not come inside. All the windows are closed.

Wednesday is water day. We get our weekly ration of water so it is always a relief when it happens. We are extremely water conscious here as we realize water is one of nature's most precious resources. The kingdom does a terrific job of conserving water and making sure it lasts. The winter had good rains and one big snowstorm, but the reservoirs were bone dry before the November rains.

As I stood outdoors last night in the cool evening air, I observed several noticeable happenings. People are walking their dogs, which are well behaved. Many in the kingdom do not like dogs, but I think that is changing. You'll find small dogs in West Amman where people of means live, and in other parts of the city, people seem to be embracing dogs as pets. The other thing I noticed was the beeping of car horns. They are quick beeps and lots of them, and it is basically taxis wanting to get the attention of people who are on the sidewalks, like me, to take a fare. Sure, there are frustrated drivers who beep to annoy people, but mostly it is done to make people know that a taxi is around for their service.

I met a friend from the United States last night for dinner. He collected me in front of the Jesuit Centre and took me to the Orthodox Club in Abdoun with his relatives. It was good to see him (unexpectedly) in Amman, and it was nice to meet his niece from New Jersey and her aunt. We had great conversations about Arabic culture and customs and neat places to see.

The Orthodox Club is a massive private club in Abdoun. We sat outdoors for dinner, which lasted hours. It was quite fascinating to see the people gather. I ordered a tall Amstel light as we watched the sun set and the moon rise. I kept thinking about the universe that is being discovered by the James Webb telescope and the marvels it is uncovering.

At the club, we watched athletes play their sports and kids enjoy the playground. We then ordered our appetizers, which are like tapas. They were terrific. Their specialty on Tuesdays are their falafels, so we ordered some of that with hummus, fattoush, grilled chicken livers with pomegranate sauce, spicy potato balls, spicy zeitoun (olives), summer sausages, various nuts, simmered mild tomatoes, grilled halloumi cheese (a favorite of mine), dolma, fresh salad, a few other dishes, and fresh bread. Then we were asked if we wanted kebabs afterwards. We were too satisfied and too stuffed to say yes, but we were grateful.

The main event was the shi-sha. You never would know that there is economic downturns because there were probably over 700 people eating at the Club. Smoking shi-sha is like a sport. Conversation and a smoke is extreme pleasure for many as they pass time. You can see the pleasure on the faces of the shi-sha-ers as they indulge in various flavors. I do not like cigarette smoking at all and yet shi-sha is much milder in aroma. I did not indulge. One dose of shi-sha is like smoking 23 cigarettes. It is odd to see one or two people alternate between shi-sha and regular cigarettes or even vaping. This is indulgence in pleasure. It is extravagant and yet affordable and basic, but the joy of seeing people take a hit and expel this stream of smoke is something to behold, especially as hundreds are doing it at the same time. Some are much more elegant and discreet as they exhale and blow the smoke away. Exhaling is an art for some and nothing else is more important at the time than letting go of that stream of air and smoke. For some, they blow smoke onto the food, which not one seems to appreciate, but most have perfected an art of smoking. I'm glad we were outdoors with a gentle wind to lift the plumes to the heavens like incense at Mass. It is a great joy for many people and their time of smoking seems to indicate gratitude and contentment that in this particular moment, with tube in hand, life is rather good.

The Sounds of Jordan

The call to prayer used to be done by a live Muezzin at various points of the day, and in this modern world, it is pre-recorded but nevertheless effective. I could imagine the beauty of having someone arise before sunrise to issue for the call. I'm sure that when it is timed as it is, many people use it as an alarm clock and feel free to sleep through it.

However, the call to prayers is sonorous. Though it clangs through city streets and off stone walls, it retains an elegance that was apparent when it would drift over the jebels and sand dunes. It is like the whispering wind that reaches a point when you don't know when there is sound or silence. It reminds me of 1 Kings when Elijah looks for the storm god from his cave. God did not appear in the lightning or thunder or the whipping winds. God appeared in the stillness following the silence.

On the other hand, the church bells are more clamorous. I hear them frequently from my desert perch because there are several churches in the wadi (valley) next to me. They signify that the service is going to begin in five or ten minutes, so hurry along and get into the church building. For me, it is reassuring, a symbol that Christ's presence is welcome in the Kingdom.

Last night, I walked to the center of Jebel Hussein where the Maxim Mall is located. It is the crest of the jebel (hill) and the center of all activity. I am also surprised by the number of people who are out and about after dinner. It is certainly an outdoor culture. I walk down several darkened streets and I sometimes wonder if I am going astray, but then it is really hard to get lost on a jebel. When I come to the end of a street, there is usually a bright area of town and I easily walk there to get reoriented.

I find it fascinating to be in such a part of town that is filled with Jordanians, Palestinians, and other Arab expatriates and then to find an American or British family living in their midst. As I passed through an unlit street, I walked faster than an American family that was turning in for the evening. On the way back from my trip, six Anglos passed by me as I sat on a wall with a Kuwaiti. They are staying at the nearby Toledo Hotel and most probably walked to the Abdali Mall.

One thing about Arabic clothing is that it is mostly cultural. At the trendy Abdali Mall, this is the fashion place to be. People dress up to be noticed and they are wearing some fine color. The Arabic gowns and hijabs are quite varied since I was last here. There are still a number on ninjas and you can tell who is from the Gulf States, but the locals are wearing quite colorful and fashionable attire. It is hard for many Westerners not to see this as religious clothing, but in most cases, it is not. You will find Latin (Roman) Catholic Christians wearing this apparel because it is a cultural choice. Is it Islamic? Yes and No. Is it Arabic? Mostly, except other Asian nations have similar attire. It is just what people wear.

Jordan is changing. Last night, I walked to the Carnival and people were having so much fun. Years ago, it was rare to find a Jordanian smiling, but this has become a common expression these days. The youth seem energetic and polite, and the young kids are enjoying playing games and taking carnival rides. From my perspective, I wish the carnival rides had better safety regulations. I imagine it was like rides were in the U.S. in the 1920s and 1930s. Regardless, many people were out having fun, enjoying themselves, and spending leisure time well. 

One interesting note from the Abdali Mall: there is a book kiosk and there is a cafe that sells books. This is not something I saw when I left here eight years ago.

One further note, when driving cars, the lines in the middle of the road do not separate lanes, it seems. They are meant to be straddled.

When walking, it seems like people have the same patterns. They move effortlessly from one spot to another with grace and without worry about encroaching someone's boundaries. I'm still thinking about this. They seem to just advance. Staying in lanes, staying to the right is a Western concept, I think. It saves from collisions, but there is a different way of avoiding collisions here. The concept of space just seems quite different. 

On my way back to the Jesuit Centre, I passed by a Kuwaiti middle age man sitting on a wall smoking a cigarette. I sat with him for a while and we interacted with the people who passed by. He was pleasant enough. He had the solutions for the world the same way most people do when they speak. He was just pleased that I took time to sit with him. A Jordanian came by and sat with us. He was exhausted from work and needed a breather. We just sat and chatted.

Monday, the Second Day of the Week

I am getting over jet lag and I'm very happy about that. Last night I said Mass in the Jesuit Centre for a small but varied congregation. We had people from India, Jordan, the US, France, the Czech Republic, the Philippines, some religious, and a few travelers. It was all quite pleasant. It was the end of a four day holiday period so this was the last gasp of peacefulness.

Afterwards, I went for a walk to the Abdali mall and Boulevard and it was overflowing with people, and they all seemed happy. Business was brisk and restaurants had waiting lines. People were completing their family time during the Eid. The most striking observation I had was that so many people were smiling and feeling good about their time together. 

It reminds me of a baptism I did years ago. A Jordanian family brought their son for baptism and I held the infant and did everything I could to make the baby smile. The father said to me, "Abouna, we are Jordanians. We don't smile."

Well, people in Jordan are now smiling as they have a place to go for entertainment. I remember the first Christmas that the Boulevard opened. A Jordanian was so excited and he ran up to me and said, "I'm so happy. I no longer have to go to London for a good meal or for shopping. I can do it here in Amman."

As I walked to and back from the Boulevard, many people looked at me because I'm obviously different. I said "Hello" and "Eid Mubarak" and they smiled and opened up always asking, "Where are you from?" And I say USA. Then I say Boston, Massachusetts. Have you been to Massachusetts? They try to pronounce it and they stumble and we laugh. People just want to be recognized and known. We talk for a bit. I seem to meet the nicest people wherever I go. Even the people with the most serene faces brighten up when I say hello. Where are you from? USA.

When I came back, Fr. Bikram was watering the plants as we will get water delivered on Wednesday.

Just a reminder that there is a customary practice of doing number 2 here that is different from the West. It seems civilized.

I was tired by 10:30, which I saw as a victory of jet lag. I went to bed about 11 p.m.

I have a Jordanian friend from the Washington, D.C., who just arrived in Amman. I'll see his family tomorrow. I have an Iraqi friend who arrives from Chicago tomorrow too. An artist friends from NYC arrived a few nights ago and is battling jet lag. I'm likely to see her at mass tomorrow. I'm getting reacquainted with many Jordanians, Palestinians, and old friends in Amman. 

I'm preparing texts for tomorrow's Zoom class on Faith and Evolution. This is a fascinating subject. I'm finishing a book called The Social Conquest of the Earth by Edward O. Wilson. Reading the two together is quite an experience of pondering the presence and reality of God.

My brother-in-law's mother died yesterday after a lengthy illness. It is quite sad but the family was able to see her a month ago and make her transition to eternal life more pleasant. 

Don't worry. I'm praying for you all back in the States.

When I awoke this morning, our cook prepared an nice mild green onion omelette and pita bread for me with a tasty coffee. This afternoon we had rice and meat stuffed cusa (zucchini) and betanjan (eggplant) and some al dente pasta with light olive oil sauce and a fresh salad. We had a digestive tea to follow. Our cook comes in on Mondays and Wednesdays, which is more than sufficient. 

It strikes me that Creativity is the way forward here in Jordan. More on this later. 

I painted this yesterday as the Eid was ending. A sufi dancer.