A Day in Azpeitzia

This morning, we pilgrims journeyed to the Magdalene Church that was built in the Fourteenth Century. Facing the church, on the other side of the road, is the Magdalene hospital, where Ignatius lived when he returned from studies at the University of Paris in 1535. The outer part of the building remains – just as it was when it was founded.

Ignatius arrived here in April of 1535 and stayed for three months. He spent his time catechizing the youth and providing spiritual direction in the hospital and church. He also begged for alms so he could continue his ministry. The window to the room Ignatius stayed is still visible, though it had been boarded up.

We had Mass at the hermitage. To my right, as the presider, was an image of the body of Ignatius as he lay on a sofa while his leg recovered from his Pamplona injury.

The town of Azpeitzia was founded in 1310. The Monastery Real de San Sebastian de Soreasu was donated to the town by King Fernando IV through the town charter. The gothic-styled monastery church stood next to a massive toward, possibly a Templar fortress. A statue of San Sebastian pierced with arrows highlights the ornamental Baroque altar-piece that contains many saints.

A side altar is dedicated to Ignatius in 1743. The Chapel of Solitude is done in a classic Renaissance style and has much ornamentation to it. A large dome in the center of the church is copied after the Pantheon in Rome. It is supported by four pendentives, adorned with relief figures of the four evangelists in sandstone.

The church was the family church of the Loyolas and was attended by the many rich families of Azpeitzia. The baptistery was built in 1701 but contains the font where Ignatius of Loyola was baptized.

After touring the central marketplace of Azpeitzia, I walked back to Loyola with my friend, Joe. We made it in time for a full lunch – the central meal of the day. Afterwards, I caught up on some emails and then began a trek up the mountain behind the basilica and castle.

Sheep roam the hillsides and some donkeys can be found as well. At the top of the foothills is a prayer space that overlooks the basilica. The road up to it is winding and grass-covered. It is quite quiet. I imagined that Ignatius played there as a boy with his boyhood friends and siblings. After his call, I imagine that he marveled at the works of God as he sat in silence. It is easy to let my imagination soar towards the heavens; I imagine Ignatius did exactly that. The beauty and magnificence of God is all around.

From there I strolled the gardens in back of the basilica. A modern statue of Ignatius as a beggar to Our Lady of Arantzazu provided a striking contrast to the castle and shrine. The wide-open grounds reveal the changes of the autumn foliage. It makes it very peaceful and serene. Early on, Ignatius must have had the capacity for reflection and solitude.

After my stroll, I caught up with some friends and we, as a whole group, had dinner at the hotel. The pilgrims are most impressive. They have led exciting lives and had done some enormously important work. I admire what they have been able to do and the family systems that made them successful.

Afterwards, we shared photographs and retired.