The Pools of Hisban

Today was election day in the U.S. We knew that we would either be very happy or very sad so we scheduled at trip that would get our minds off the elections.

We travelled to Hisban, a small village before arriving in Madaba. Hisban is mentioned only once in the Bible and it is in the Song of Songs, "Her eyes are like the pools of Hisban." This was the third week in a row we searched for the place and we were happy to have found it.

We first visited the village on the top of the hill, Tel Hisban. Tel means hill. It was a combination of an old Christian village, Roman fortress, and Marmaluk protectorate. St. Andrews University did some recent excavation and set up some signs to point out various places of interest. The language seemed a bit hyperbolic and focused only on certain populations while neglecting others. It is true that the victors write the history books.

We then visited the pools of Hisban. We were pleased to run into some farmers who were washing their radish harvest in the streams. The water was pure and refreshing. The radishes were deliciously spicy. We bought a small bunch from them because they kept feeding us. It was the only civil thing to do. The valley that is fed by the stream is very fertile.

Afterwards, we sought out the pools is Hisban. We identified where they might be, but we travelled along the road in case they were further ahead.We doubled back and we met some crab farmers. They were catching half-dollar sized crabs that they will grow and eventually sell at a profit. I hope they leave some there so they can reproduce. Also, it is a shame that so many people litter everywhere they go.

The pools are quite extraordinary. I love water. I love rain. I felt excited when i saw the clear pools that must have delighted frolickers over the centuries. I can see how they grip the imagination of a person who lives in an arid climate. While I love lush vegetation, my assignment is to a dry and weary land. Go figure.

We ate lunch at Haret Jdoudna, the courtyard of the Grandparents. It was quite tasty and filling. We were only a small handful of restauranteurs because we are no longer in peak tourist season. Afterwards we toured some excellent archeological sites that are in the center of the city. They are filled with great mosaics and of abandoned churches. We saw a Roman Road that was quite impressive. I'm sure the Roman empire in all its glory was quite something to behold. The last mosaic we saw as taken from Macearus, the site of the beheading of John the Baptist. It pre-dates Christ and is the oldest known mosaic. This land is fascinating.

To see photos of Hisban and Madaba, click on the link below:

1. The Village of Hisban

2. The Pools of Hisban

3. Lunch at Madaba and tour of the Mosaic Museums