As this is a long weekend Islamic holiday in the Kingdom, I took a walk to Abdali Mall. I like it in the early morning when people are gathered at outdoor restaurants to breakfast. It is quite and peaceful for a Saturday and people seem to be in a good mood.
On the way up the hill to make a crossing to the next road, I finally saw my old barber. He is an elderly Syrian man who hasn't changed much over the years. I sang to him the Syrian national anthem, "Biktub" and he sang along with me without reservation. He then pointed out to me the priest who lives across the street as he was coming out of his house. The priest looked well groomed and prosperous. When I was leaving Jordan eight years ago, he gave me a pair of scissors as a gift. I thought that was very thoughtful. He gave me an essential part of who he is.
As I walked up the road, I marveled at some of the interior gardens of businesses and residences. The people seem to have a special relationship with their flowers and trees. Some people really like when pine trees are growing outside their windows. It gives them Zen moments where they just breathe deeply. Often they may have a tiny plot of land at the entrance to their house or on their patio, but they tenderly care for these plants as they become part of the family.
As I was not in a sure to get to the Boulevard, I noticed several young men pass by me. What is clear is that many people where functional cologne and lots of it. The reasons are understandable but it makes me want to only wear perfume instead of cologne when I return home. The differences are major.
Abdali Boulevard was sleepy, just the way I like it. It is akin to being at Quincy Market in Boston at 8:00 a.m. when the buskers have not yet reached their kiosks. There's also promise in the air about expectations and hopes for the day. Most of the people who visit the Boulevard during these hours are either hotel visitors or residents of the luxury apartments.
Children seem to light up when I wave to them. They sometimes shout out their names to tell me who they are as their parents politely bring them over to say hello. Starbucks and Contra Coffee are the two big coffee sellers, so I make sure I go into an Arabic coffeehouse to get a specialty made cappuccino or my favorite, a flat white, both decaf.
Mass at St. Mary's Sweifieh was quite good. The church is becoming filled again as people are returning from COVID protocols. Many have taken vacation and now feel that travel and going outdoors is easy enough. It is nice to see the church at near capacity. There will be a new Arabic pastor and I think he will be a good fit for the parish. He is kind, gentle, and wise, and the people need that. If there is a deficit in the church life in Amman, it is that the church often does not teach people to pray. I think people need to be introduced to Ignatian Spiritual Direction.
Last night we had many visitors to the Church again, and we provided donuts to celebrate the Solemnity of St. Ignatius of Loyola who died on this date in 1556. We said the eighth day of the Novena and many were very happy with the prayers I put together for them. I fared them well and I said goodbye and people were upset that I was not staying longer.
During Mass, I kept thinking to myself, almost gleefully: Ignatius wanted to get to the Holy Land to live and say Mass. Here I am living and saying Mass in the Holy Land. I offered my mass for his intentions and to share with him the joy of being in the place he longed to be.
Afterwards, some friends and I went to an Italian restaurant that was quite good. It naturally was outdoors and the food was well presented and well prepared. The chef was from Italy and he trains a number of people how to prepare Italian food, not the Arabic way, but the Italian way. The results are quite good. My steak filet was almost medium rare, the pumpkin ravioli were homemade, the tuna and greek salad was tasty, the cheese plate was drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, and the bresciola was a highlight. All was prepared to high standards and it was topped off with homemade gelato. The pistachio was better than I anticipated.
I sat eating under the stars, with tall pines to serenade us, mosaics on the way, with ambient lighting while having fun conversations with good friends. It does not get better than this. It was a splendid way to honor St. Ignatius and the good people of the Holy Lands.
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