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Tuesday, July 26, 2022

Crumz and the Taj Mall

I go out in the morning as it is still cool and tolerable walking up and down hills that would cause perspiration in the Northeast U.S. This morning I went to the Museum of Old Signs because I heard people refer to it affectionately. It was certainly a pleasant experience and I was able to chat with two of the museum curators, though in a limited fashion. They were very proud of the museum. I tried offering a tip to support the free museum but they didn't understand my intention.

I think the oldest sign is from 1947 and it contains some interesting features. Amman is still a young city, maybe 90 years old and it really began to develop after the Nakba, the forced exile of Palestinians from their land into Jordan. The Palestinians and Jordanians are quite different people, but they are siblings in their concern for the land that was taken from them. The city is now the fifth largest Arab city and has strategic importance to the West and in its relationship to its Arab neighbors.

After visiting the museum, I went to some of the small shops in the downtown area and I wandered through alleys. Some alleys are like districts. There is a district for gold, one for silver, some for fabrics, another for car parts, and there are various mens and womens shops. They have shops of elegantly individually wrapped chocolates and sweets, tons of watered down perfume, baubles, and childrens toys, nuts and dates, and seafood restaurants. It is quite a happening place and people do enjoy being there.

After the shopping excursion, I went back to Darat Al Funum because the interior portion of the museum was closed when I went there last week. The exhibit is on sustainability and ways to create vibrant green pastures out of deserts. The soil in Jordan is actually quite fertile. It is just the 3rd poorest water nation in the world. 

The big question that I have is "Why do so many people smoke?" When one walks into a small shop, it is like walking into a smoking nightclub as there is smoke dust all around. The places wreak of tobacco. I can understand why one smoke argilla, because it is a social custom and it is an activity but far too many people here smoke cigarettes, vape, and use argilla. 

I know that children begin around 14 and no one seems to mind. I have never seen a logical explanation for the reason for smoking, so it just confuses me why people continue to smoke when they know it is harmful. Is it because they do not think it is harmful enough? Do they think they can quit? It is quite a challenge to quit in this culture when the smoking is pervasive. 

There does not yet seem to be a realization that some people do not like smoke, so people do not accommodate one's non-smoking preferences. They light up whenever and wherever. However, I did notice that in the newer malls, people vape but there is no outright smoking on the premises. A person can smoke in the cafes and restaurants (which I still don't like) but at least it is outdoors.

This evening I drove to a place called Crumz, because it was one of my places of respite eight years ago. It is quite a fine bakery just on the edge of town that caters to the wealthier West Ammanites. There is a non-smoking section and one can have a leisurely cup of coffee with some well-prepared bread or muffins or pastries. I was pleased to discover it is still there. Actually, most of the places that I frequented are still around, which must say something good about the economy.

I went to the Taj Mall afterwards. This Mall is built for the wealthy Saudis who come to Jordan for vacation. Their wives go shopping and you will find all the high end stores that are in expensive neighborhoods in the West. The Saudi Arabian embassy is right across the street so lots of exchanges happen in this area. I believe the Taj Mall is Iraqi owned and operated.

One of the most impressive features of Jordan is the mall parking lots. They are so clean and well attended with great lighting and no trash with wide lanes for parking and it is free. It is just amazing how they have developed a system that feels normal and is a pleasant parking experience. The roads are very good here too, though the drivers will often make a two lane highway into four.

As the Taj Mall is on the west side of the city, it draws a wealthier demographic. You will see many people wearing western clothing and just handing out. Some wear shorts and light tops, and you'll still find your share of covered people. I can see that the clothing that is worn makes a statement. If you are short, portly, and non-descript, but you wear a white robe with a sash around your head covering, it speaks of stature. In some ways, the same thing happens with some clerics in the U.S. as it is immediately recognizable and identifiable. I was noticing that about 3/5th of the people were uncovered, but that is lower than eight years ago. Once again, I was about to greet Sister with a big hello, until I realized that it was an Islamic outfit and not a Roman one.

Though there is Polo, Abercrombie, and all the big name shops, so many people still wear basic black. People dress in a way that does not represent the best of themselves, whether in Jordan or the U.S. With so much good clothing, wouldn't one want to dress nicely when they go outdoors?

And so, my one disappointment was that the Chinese Restaurant, P.F. Chang, has been replaced by Chuck E Cheese. However, there appears to be a fine appearing Italian restaurant tucked away from the crowds where a more subtle crowd gathers to dine. All in all, it was fun to revisit places that I've frequented and to marvel at how successful the economy remains. 

Off to start another drawing. Here is one that I tinkered with last night. I call it Loaves and Fishes.






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