The Old City

After lunch today, I walked to the Old City. My goal was not to do sight-seeing, but to take a few photos. The sun was low in the sky and it was a good range of light to take photos.

I marveled at the changes that took place since I was here in 2000. I don't remember the sleek trains in front of the old city. I recall remarking to a Jesuit friend at the time that the buildings near the Jesuit Residence are quite attractive. I could see it as the beginning of urban renewal. Wow. Did that come true.

The residences have begun upgraded and the system of parks is just beautiful. It beckons people to get outside and enjoy their city. Everything fits together so well. A new outdoor pedestrian mall for high end customers (not me) runs parallel to the Old City. It incorporates all the old buildings that have existed for a long time.

In some ways, the blatancy of the markets would tear up the heart of Jesus again. Old churches are almost like museums. When you walk out of them, you enter into a courtyard with the latest fashion in clothing and fine restaurants. Quickly, one can lose the feel of the sacred as one steps into a market district. The shops are finely built and they create real-time social networking. I had mixed feelings. I was impressed and at the same time repulsed.

All the cross-ways and road are world class. It is a sharp energetic city. It is on the move. Aside from any religious affiliation, many people would want to live in such a beautiful city on its own merits.

I was about to turn back just as I was at the entrance to the Old City, but then I wanted to photograph something. One vendor accosted me and begged me to come into his shop. I refused and he begged. I refused again and he begged. I told him O.K as long as he understands that I will not buy anything. I told him I just wanted to take a few photographs and then go home for a nap.

He fed me coffee and showed me very high quality Persian rugs. He introduced me to his family and he made me offers on products. I told him I was not ready to buy anything and that he is wasting his time. We chatted. He told him how bad business was for the past two months and he just opened his new location, but the bad news of conflict send tourists scurrying away. Would I please buy something so he could make one sale today. I reminded him on my earlier word. I told him he has fine merchandise (because he does), but that I am not interested in purchasing anything. He was very pleasant and then he tried to sell me tours. He would take me around all of Israel at a price we could negotiate. I agreed to take his phone number if I was inclined to take a tour. And so I left.

The minute I walked out of his store, which was in a great location, another vendor sold me his story. He let me take photos from his rooftop because he owns a hostel plus two stores. He hasn't made a sale in two weeks and he will have cancer surgery in another week. After tea and more conversation and a plodding sales job, I reminded him that I was not in the market to buy anything.

I felt like I was consoling these merchants and asking them to keep their spirits up. Lent is around the corner and many pilgrims will make their way to Jerusalem. After all, it is the dead of winter.

I went through the Old City and I heard similar stories from many vendors. I passed by so many. One guy asked me to draw him a sign for his new store. He wanted at least one sale in the day to boost his confidence in his new store. I told him I don't buy things for that reason, but I encouraged him to persevere.

Sadly, a look of desperation fell upon many of their faces. Truth be told: They are wealthy compared to most Jordanians. I realize the economy is bad for them at this moment, but they have to live on a longer-term basis.

I was assumed that priest stoles were sold. I was in the Christian Quarter and that meant an increase of incense and religious goods. I then happened through a doorway that led to the Holy Sepulcher. I spent a good while inside and stayed away from the crowds, even though this is not the busy time. Monks were staging a liturgy that moved from room to room. They sang well.

When I left the tomb, it was getting dark. I walked along that new pedestrian mall, which ran a great length, and then I returned home.

I had drinks with some interesting chaps - a Vietnamese, Spaniard, Pole, Indian, Czech, and an American. The stories I heard were amazing. One guy was imprisoned for 8 years when the communists took over. Another was the president of the Augustinian for Patristics Studies. Each had amazing tales and I was glad to sit and chat with them. The conversation was easy and inspiring. I've had a good start to my trip.

To see photos of snow, click on the link below:

1. Pics of Walking back to the Jes. Res.
2. Pics of The Holy Sepulchre
3. Pics of Rooftop views of East Jerusalem
4. Pics of The Old City
5. Pics of The Grounds of the Jesuit Residence.