Today I met a friend's friend, Dr. Roberta, from Germany and we toured the Russian Compound on the Sabbath. It was quite eery - just like last night. We wanted to see the areas, but I wasn't really dressed properly in a bright red hat and corduroy shirt. Dr. Roberta wore western clothing as well. As we were leaving the compound we saw instructions posted on the wall about wearing proper clothing when walking through the area.
The attire is quite a throwback. The costumes are Russian in origin and are quite fantastic. I can see why people would find it interesting to dress in that way because it radiates strength and identity. People were basically out for strolls. Many crowded the Western Wall and others were just walking through the neighborhoods. They carried nothing. Women did not carry purses and men had nothing in their arms. They often walked with arms folded.
I understand that children begin studying the Torah at age three and when they are older they continue only their religious studies. They do not attend school the way most Israelis do. Families are large and parents do not work because their job is to study. The State pays for their welfare. I need to learn a little more about the various strains of Judaism. It is quite fascinating.
Dr. Roberta's foot was stepped on by this one man. They are not to touch goyim, but he did step on her foot and then looked in disdain at her clothing. He did not speak to us - except through his facial expressions. Shortly afterwards a young boy started uttering: pow, pow, pow, pow. There's an undercurrent of anger in this community. They also do not mix well with the contemporary Jewish society.
I can empathize with a group that retains traditions. It rejects the world though and it doesn't try to reconcile with the society around them. Families remain tight and a young person cannot leave the community. The family will have a burial service for the person who leaves.
Roberta and I had coffee at Aroma. It was difficult to find a coffeehouse on a Sabbath, but it was very nice. We lunched at the Jesuit residence.
We planned to take the southern route on the outskirts of the Old City, but instead we hiked the ramparts from Damascus Gate to Lion's Gate. The bird's eye view was terrific. We were unencumbered by merchants and we walked at a leisurely pace. The setting sun was an excellent backdrop being at the Lion's Gate right above the Arab cemetery.
After I left Roberta near her hotel, I scooted back to the game shop on Ben Yehuda. I was interested in purchasing two 2,000 piece jigsaw puzzles for the community, but they were still closed.
Jordan tomorrow celebrates the birthday of the prophet. It becomes a national holiday. It is time to return to Amman.
To see photos of my day, click on the link below:
1. Pics of the Concathedral of the Latin Patriarch
2. Pics of O'er the Ramparts we watched
3. Pics of The Ramparts to the Lion's Gate
What an interesting day! The pictures are wonderful. I'm sure you enjoy taking such interesting shots.
ReplyDeleteIt is a nice craft to have. You learn to see the world from different lenses.
DeleteDid you think that the foot incident was intentional? If so, that is interesting that he would chose to step on a woman instead of another man. Wow, that seems pretty harsh to bury a family member searching for happiness elsewhere. And for healthy parents to have large families and live off of the state, makes me wonder if others who are supporting them resent this. That could account in part for the undercurrent of anger, if they know they are looked down on for their way of life. What fascinating experiences you (and us) are having. I almost bought you a 1000 piece jigsaw but thought it might be too large, I guess I underestimated you.
ReplyDeleteI do think it was deliberate. I was dressed in what would have been considered modest clothing, but her blue jeans were not. It wasn't the incident itself that gave it away, but the disdainful look on his face as he peered back to us. He peered back at me because he is not to look at her.
DeleteThe community of faith means everything to them. If one steps out of it, the person is leaving God behind. Yes, when the community was small it was easy for the state to support them, but they are growing because of the large families and immigration. They are a financial burden on the state. They do not mix well with the State and they have some political power. I think they look down more on the contemporary Israeli than they are looked down upon. They regard everyone else as traitors to the faith if they do not hold ultra-orthodox views. They would be equivalent to the Maccabean brothers.
I'm a jigsaw puzzle fan. There were two 3,000 piece puzzles at a toy store in Jerusalem, but I just missed getting to the store before the Sabbath customs closed the doors. I'll have to wait until a return trip.
What a treat to follow you! Thank you :-)
ReplyDeleteThanks, Claire. What a time I've had.
DeleteWhat a fascinating account John. I've enjoyed the trip too in a virtual way. It's like wheels within wheels there and the image of a jigsaw for your experiences sort of fits with it too in a ziggy zaggy sort of way :-))
ReplyDeleteBlessings
It was a relaxing and engaging time. I have much upon which to reflect. I was talking about my experiences with someone today and it shows how many questions are still unsettled.
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